The industry of RC has several different facets; there’s really something for all. One of many areas I’ve set my sights on mastering is the drift segment. It basically goes against everything I’ve learned in relation to driving sliding is better than grip, more power does not necessarily mean a faster vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic surpasses rubber. And once 3Racing sent over their Axial Wraith, I needed to scoop one up to see what every one of the hoopla was using this type of drifter.
WHO Will Make It: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any amount of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
Just How Much: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for easy learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning in front of the motor or about the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?A great deal of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips away from the roller bearing
This drifter has a great deal selecting it; well manufactured, a lot of pretty aluminum and rolls in at a very inexpensive price. Handling is great also as soon as you get used to the kit setup, and it accepts an incredibly wide variety of body styles. There’s also a ton of tunability for those that love to tinker, which means this car should grow along for your skills do.
The D4’s chassis can be a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It has cutouts at the base to the front and back diffs to peek through and also a bazillion countersunk holes. Many of these are used for mounting such things as the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but you can find quite a few left empty. They could be used to control chassis flex, however, not using the stock top deck; an optional you must be bought. The layout is comparable to a normal touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and finally the back bulkhead/ suspension. Everything is easy to access and replaceable with just a few turns of some screws.
? Other than a few interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is nearly the same as a touring car’s. One particular A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are being used, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to boost them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The rear suspension uses vertical ball studs to handle camber and roll as the front uses a fascinating, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This product allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on upper and lower pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and provides for some extreme camber settings.
? One thing that’s pretty amazing with drift cars will be the serious quantity of steering throw they have. Starting with the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart and also as near the edges in the chassis as possible. This creates a massive 65° angle, enough to manipulate the D4 in including the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend most of their time sideways, I wanted a great servo to keep up with the constant countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
Whilst not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to take care of any steering angle changes I need it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 uses a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A huge, 92T 48P spur is attached to the central gear shaft, the location where the front and back belts meet. Pulleys keep the front belt high over the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the strength on the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to permit using a variety of different wheel and tire combos.
? To present the D4 a certain amount of beauty, I opted for 3racing Sakura D4 body from ABC Hobby. This is a beautiful replica on this car and included a slick pair of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure the way to paint it, nevertheless i do remember a technique I used quite some time back that got a bit of attention. So, I gave the RX-3 a try of pearl white about the underside, but painted the fenders black on the outside. After everything was dry, I shot the surface by using a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I really like the last result … and it was easy. That’s good because I’m an extremely impatient painter!
In The TRACK
For this test, I needed the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter down on the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I was heading there to complete a photo shoot for one more vehicle and thought, heck, why not bring it along and acquire some sideways action?
The steering on the D4 is quite amazing. Because I mentioned earlier, the throw is really a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from the parts. Even CVD’s can change that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. While it does look a bit funny using the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does a wonderful job of keeping the slide controlled and moving in the appropriate direction. This is certainly, in part, because of the awesome handling of your D4, but the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting is just not about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I realize that sounds odd, but once you’ve mastered the wheel speed of the drifter, you may control the angle of attack along with the sideways motion through any corner. I came across Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to complete simply that make controlled, smooth throttle changes in affect the angle of your D4 when and where I needed. Sliding in the little shallow? Add more throttle to find the tail end to whip out. Starting to over cook the corner? Ease up a little and the D4 would get back in line. It’s all a point of ? nesse, and also the Novak system is designed for exactly that. I did so really need to be a little creative together with the install from the system on account of small space on the chassis, but overall it determined great.
After driving connected touring cars for quite a while, it can go on a little getting used to knowing that a vehicle losing grip and sliding is the proper way around the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control as soon as you buy it, it’s beautiful. Going for a car and pitching it sideways via a sweeper, while keeping the nose pointed in at less than a couple of inches in the curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled out of hand thing, as well as the D4 will it wonderfully. The kit setup is useful, but if you believe like you require more of something anything there’s a good amount of what you should adjust. I actually enjoyed the auto using the kit setup plus it was just a point of a battery pack or two before I was swinging the rear round the hairpins, across the carousel and forward and backward throughout the chicane. I never had the chance to strap the battery about the diffuser, but that’s something I’m eager for.
There’s not a whole lot that can be done to damage a drift car they’re not really going everything that fast. I have done, however, offer an trouble with the leading belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the top level deck. Through the initial run, it suddenly felt like the D4 acquired just a little drag brake. I kept by using it, looking to overcome the situation with driving, but soon needed to RPM Traxxas slash parts it into actually take a look. In the build, the belt slips in a plastic ‘tunnel’ that is certainly supported by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted such things as the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square about the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, if the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide from the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it comes down in touch with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a prolonged screw with several 1mm shims to space the bearing out a bit more. Problem solved.